The Unconventional Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 is Truly Remarkable

It's been a hot minute since Audemars Piguet debuted its [Re]Master01, the inaugural piece in a new collection inspired by the brand's deep and rich archives. That first watch, released in 2020, was closely inspired by a chronograph from 1943, a beautifully faithful modern update of an important classic watch.

The Origins

In theory, the just-announced Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 follows the same formula, but the aesthetic of this limited edition is anything but classical. Full of stark lines and bold angles, the [Re]Master02 is a tribute to an important 1960 watch, the model 5159BA — an incredibly rare watch produced in just seven units. 

This original model was part of a series of exceptionally limited pieces inspired by the then-popular brutalist movement in architecture, named not for its unforgiving style but for the phrase 'béton brut' — meaning 'raw concrete' — which served as the style's core mode of expression. Sébastian Vivas, Heritage and Museum Director of Audemars Piguet, explains, "Between 1959 and 1963, Audemars Piguet created more than 30 asymmetrical models, most of which were produced in less than 10 pieces. [RE]Master02 is a fantastic opportunity to revive this forgotten golden age."

Case & Dial

As far as revivals go, [Re]Master02 is exceptional. The case is clearly exceptional, crafted from Audemars Piguet's new Sand Gold, which debuted earlier this year. Here, the subtle warmth of the material is amplified by the strong line and sharp edges of the 41mm case, with its off-center dial. The finish of the case evokes the rawness of brutalism architecture, albeit in the most luxurious way possible. The dial is equally impressive and complex. Executed in Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50, Audemars Piguet could have easily created a single element and called it a day. Instead, they painstakingly worked 12 triangular elements, placed on the dial and separated by a sand-gold toned partition, resulting in a dial that resembles a modern take on a mosaic, with strong geometric elements that perfectly echo the design of the case.

This care and geometric focus extends even to the crystal, which, because of the unique nature of the case, is quite complex. The sapphire crystal has a 15.8-degree bezel on the right hand side, to continue the lines of the case and maximize visual impact. This element alone required two years of research and development so that it met the brands quality requirements and water-resistance guarantee.

The Movement

Of course, technical precision extends to the interior of the watch too, with the extra thin self-winding Calibre 7129 being used. Based on 2022's Calibre 7121, the 7129 lacks the date complication of the 7121, and produces more energy thanks to its larger barrel. It also boasts an asymmetric oscillating weight (also in Sand Gold tone) which echoes the shape of the case.

This singular design is yet again a great example of how to sensitively modernize a historic design, and Audemars Piguet seems set to use the very special [Re]Master line to shine a light on less well-known pieces from the brand's past. It's also worth noting that while the original was exceptionally rare, with only a handful of pieces, this is going to be an in-demand watch, too, as it's limited to 250 pieces.

[RE]Master02 selfwinding / 41mm
Limited edition of 250 pieces
15240SG.OO.A347CR.01

Case: Asymmetrical case in 18k sand gold, glareproofed sapphire
crystal and caseback, case thickness: 9.7mm

Dial: Parted “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial with linear satin finishing, sand gold hands.

Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 7129, total diameter 29.6mm (12 4/5 lignes), total thickness 2.8mm, number of parts: 211, number of jewels: 31, frequency of balance wheel 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)

Power Reserve: 52 h

Water Resistance: 30m 
Functions: Hours and minutes.
Strap: Alligator leather strap in contrasting shades of blue with matt finishing
and 18k sand gold pin buckle.

Price: HKD 356,000